Hi everyone. We’re back, and we’ve arrived in Bangkok after a restful week in Hong Kong. We stayed with John Hulpke (Kate’s dad) at Hong Kong University of Science and Technology in Clearwater Bay. After living in a van for a month, it was terrific to stay with Kate’s dad in his comfy and roomy flat at HKUST faculty quarters.
We got an Octopus Card so we could zip all around Hong Kong on the very clean and efficient public transporatation system. The Octopus Card works not only on subways and buses, but also at grocery stores and cafes. It’s even better than a debit card — no swiping, no PIN, just touch the card to a sensor pad and away you go. The subway system is huge yet easy to use, making it easy to get from Clearwater Bay to Hong Kong’s “Central” District, one of Asia’s — and the world’s — financial hubs. Dodging all those Armani-suited captains of the universe on Central’s busy streets was hard work; good thing the subway home is the perfect place for some shut-eye.
(It wasn’t just sleepy-head Kate — we saw lots of people riding home from work asleep, some standing up!)
More interesting than banks in Central, was Kowloon, where there are many street markets selling everything from fresh flowers and live fish to “Gucci” bags and “Rolex” watches.
One afternoon, while Kate was barginning hard for a pair of socks (she managed to get the merchant “down” to full price) we noticed another little reminder of home:
We were tempted by the delicious-looking street food…
…but decided to indulge ourselves on great Dim Sum, instead. More than once. (Hope we don’t come home too much bigger than when we left!)
Even though Hong Kong is on the water, it gets tons of pollution drifting over from the mainland’s nearby “special enterprise zones.” As a result vistas were a bit hazy, giving distant skyscrapers an otherworldly aspect. Kind of lovely, actually (but not so good for the lungs).
John shared with us one of his favorite neighborhoods, Sai Kung. It has winding streets with tiny shops and numerous good cafes — including Honeymoon Dessert, which has special separate “Durian” and “Non-Durian” seating areas. (Try googling it!) Sai Kung also has a wonderful harbor, filled with fishing junks.
On Sunday afternoons everyone and their dog — literally — comes to Sai Kung’s waterfront park to play. Kate had a chance to commune with several of the denizens.
And believe it or not, in Sai Kung’s park we actually saw “chestnuts roasting on an open fire”! We ate some, which John graciously purchased after Kate angered the chestnut vendor by taking pictures. (Sorry ’bout that!)
After a week that went way too quickly we had a fun dinner with John and his girlfriend Cubie. Note the ketchup: it was for our hamburger and fries at Dan Ryan’s Chicago Grill. Brought up fond memories for former Chicagoan Derry.
Thanks John and Cubie (and Teresa and Grace) for a great visit! Now we’re in Bangkok, gearing up for some snorkelling on the Andaman Coast…. Hope this finds you all well and enjoying December.
Happy Solstice, with love, Derry & Kate
December 18, 2007 at 11:33 am
So was the Durian seating separation due to that being a stinky fruit? Did you try any? What did it smell like?
You look so shiney and happy in the photos, I’m glad you two are having such a great time!! I got a freebee world map in the mail the other day and we came up with this idea to “follow” you on your journey by putting marks (tacks or something) on it. I was wondering… could you do a post (or an e-mail) with a rough itinerary of where you’re going and when?
Loves to you two from us here in rainy ol’ Eugene!
December 21, 2007 at 5:46 pm
Hi Kate and Derry,
Hummm….Durian, or non-durian? I figured right away it couldn’t be smoking, or non-smoking, and I vaguely recall you, or Dan, talking about this, whatever it is, so…I did google it. And, I found out it is an evil-looking, smelly fruit that some people really like, and some people find so disgusting they don’t even want to be around it. Interesting? Don’t you wonder who it was who first tried durian? My theory is that it was some rascally little boys who said, “Hummm, thorny, dangerous- looking thing that could be a primitive hand grenade! We have found a weapon! But, let’s SMASH it and see what’s inside. Hummm, disgusting, terrible-smelling stuff….Let’s EAT it!” So…., are you durian, or non-durian?
I also need to google dim sum. Chinese?
Japanese? I’ve never had it, but it sounds like you like it a lot. I need to give it a try, but,I think I’ll pass on durian. Thanks anyway.
Happy Christmawanzanukkah! Today is the winter soltice, I believe….the shortest day of the year, so I am starting a new tradition: I kept my ‘jammies on all day! I mean, why bother?
We have been watching this series of videos we check out of the library called “Midsomer
Murders.” They are the classic English village mysteries. We wrap up in quilts by the fire, turn out all the lights and try to figure out: “Who dun it? We are getting pretty good at it. It’s always the one you least suspect.
We love you both, and miss you. Take good care of each other.
Mom/Sue
December 24, 2007 at 9:17 pm
School’s out! Eric and I shared a tiny cabin at Odell Lake with Jean and Skeeter and their dog, Chloe, for four days, and it snowed and snowed. That was fun. Sue and Michael and Jyoti went to Baja, and now Forrest is here. David has a new CD out with a great picture Karen Garfinkle sent him of prayer flags in Dharamsala on the cover. Miss you. Love the blog.
December 29, 2007 at 2:52 pm
In one of those weird coincidence things, a couple of days after I read your blog, Brant was watching a program on the Travel Channel called Bizarre Food (I think), and the host who apparently can eat anything (bugs! slugs! awful offal!) was attempting to eat a Durian. He almost lost it on camera. So, from never hearing of it to two mentions in two days..
Happy New Year to you both!
love, Pauline (and Brant and the pups)
January 1, 2008 at 12:33 am
Hi Everybody! OK today we’re learning how to leave a comment. That’s a cool idea, Jess, to follow us on a map. Here is an approximation of our (ever-changing) itinerary…
1st week of Jan: central Thailand
2nd week of Jan: Hanoi, Vietnam
3rd week of Jan: Luang Prabang, Laos
last part of Jan: northern Thailand
first part of Feb: 3-day train ride to Kuala Lumpur, Malaysia
Feb: the Philippines!
March, April, May: India & Nepal
June: Greece & Crete
July: EUGENE!!!! (-: (-:
January 1, 2008 at 12:37 am
Regarding suspicious desserts: to be honest, we are still non-durian, though we keep saying we’re going to try it pretty soon. In Hong Kong it was enough to try bean paste for dessert. No chocolate for thousands of miles!
January 1, 2008 at 12:40 am
Jain, snowy Oregon winter mountains are one thing we are missing! Hope you had a chance to ski and/or snowshoe. Is Forrest still thinking about doing some traveling? How ’bout that LSAT? Miss you too!